Sport climbing made its Olympic debut in Tokyo last year to mixed reviews from the competitors but an additional gold medal up for grabs — a total of four across three disciplines on offer compared with two at these Games — men’s and women’s combined outweighs any possible negativity going into Paris.
In Japan, the three climbing disciplines bouldering, lead and speed were combined in a single event each for men and women together so athletes had to adapt to new formats.
Obviously it was a little bit weird because we have been putting only one medal to our sport so the three disciplines were combined together which is kind of sh**,” he told Reuters.
You have to train the speed-climber in boulder and lead, but likewise with the other disciplines they are totally different. They did not feel good about the process and there was a lot of outrage… it felt pretty damaging (to climbers),” he said.
However, the well-received spectacle of sport climbing in Tokyo and its increasing global popularity has won it a second medal in Paris, which will be used for the speed contest to run parallel with bouldering & lead.
This year itself has seen times topple in the speed division with American Sam Watson breaking his own world record twice within an hour at a meet back in April.
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For the American chess enthusiast, chasing a gold medal in his other favorite pursuit.
